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Concrete built for ground that moves

Driveways, patios, walkways and stamped finishes. What each costs per square foot in DFW, and the two questions that separate a real bid from a cheap one.

Updated for 2026
The short version

Flatwork is a base job with concrete on top

Concrete is the most common surface in a DFW backyard and the one where the difference between good and cheap is hardest to see on day one. Two driveways poured the same week can look identical and behave completely differently three summers later. What separates them is under the slab: how the ground was excavated, how the base was compacted, what reinforcement went in, and where the control joints were placed.

Our clay makes that more true here than almost anywhere. The ground under your slab swells when it rains and shrinks when it bakes, and it does that every year. Concrete does not bend. So the work is about controlling where it gives.

Our specialty

Overlays, a new patio without demolition

An overlay is a new surface bonded on top of the concrete you already have. The slab stays where it is. What changes is the top, which gets scored, stamped, or textured into large format tile, cut stone, or a slate look, then colored and sealed. From standing height it does not read as a coating. It reads as the patio you wish had been poured in the first place.

This is the single best value move on a tired slab, and it is what most builders skip because tearing out and repouring bills more. Industry guidance puts it at roughly 90 percent of jobs: if the substrate is sound, resurfacing beats replacement on cost.

Overlay work Typical range
Resurfacing and overlays, installed$4 to $25 per sq ft
Spray texture, pool deck and patioLow end of that range
Scored or stamped overlayMiddle of that range
Hand troweled decorative and stone lookUpper end of that range
Typical contractor project minimum$850 to $3,500
  • It works when the slab is sound. Surface wear, discoloration, spalling, dated broom finish, or a patio that simply looks cheap are all good candidates.
  • It does not work on a failing slab. Heaving, sinking, or wide structural cracks mean the concrete is moving, and a coating over movement fails at the same lines. That slab comes out.
  • Existing cracks get treated, not ignored. How a crack is prepared before the overlay goes down is the difference between a repair that disappears and one that reappears in a year.
  • It is faster and cleaner than demolition. No jackhammers, no hauling out broken concrete, no re excavating a base, and far less disruption to the yard around it.
  • Seal it and mean it. The sealer is what protects the color and the surface. Plan on resealing on a schedule, the same way you would maintain any decorative finish.

Ask any overlay bid one question first: is my slab a candidate, and why. A contractor who walks the patio, looks at the cracks, and tells you honestly that it needs to come out instead is the one worth hiring.

New pours

Concrete pricing in DFW

Work Typical range
Plain or broom finish, installed$4 to $10 per sq ft
Stamped, one pattern one color$10 to $14 per sq ft
Stamped with border and colors$14 to $20 per sq ft
Stamped, multi pattern hand colored$20+ per sq ft
Patio, 10 by 10$800 to $1,200
Driveway, 20 by 40$4,000 to $6,000

These are typical installed ranges for the Dallas and Fort Worth market, covering excavation, base, reinforcement, concrete, and finish. Stamped work sits between plain concrete and pavers, which run about $10 to $23 per square foot installed, because stamping is poured in one pass instead of set piece by piece.

What we pour

Concrete work around the house

  • Driveways and extensions. New pours, replacements, and the extra parking pad or turnaround that makes a narrow driveway usable.
  • Patios and slabs. Broom finish, exposed aggregate, or stamped, sized and sloped so water leaves the house instead of pooling at it.
  • Walkways and steppers. Poured paths, and the cut steppers set in gravel that read cleaner than a solid ribbon of concrete.
  • Steps and landings. Where a grade change meets a door, and where bad work shows up fastest.
  • Footings and pads. The concrete nobody sees, under a retaining wall, a patio cover post, an outdoor kitchen, or a hot tub.
  • Curbing and edging. Poured edges that hold beds, gravel, and turf in place instead of letting them migrate into the lawn.

Two questions separate a real bid from a cheap one. How thick is the pour, and where do the control joints go? A contractor who answers both without hesitating has already thought about your slab. One who waves it off has not.

Good to know

Common concrete questions

Can I resurface my patio instead of tearing it out?
Usually. Industry guidance puts it around 90 percent of the time: if the slab underneath is structurally sound, an overlay is the more cost effective move than demolition and a fresh pour. You keep the existing concrete, and you get a new surface on top that can be scored, stamped, or textured to look like tile or stone.
When will an overlay not work?
When the slab is actively failing. If it is heaving, sinking, or badly cracked, an overlay just puts a new face on a moving problem, and those cracks work their way up through it. A reputable contractor will refuse to coat a failing surface rather than take your money and watch it come apart. If the slab moves, it comes out.
Concrete or pavers for a patio?
Concrete costs less and goes down faster. Pavers cost more and handle North Texas clay better, because the joints let the surface flex instead of cracking. The honest way to decide is what happens when the ground moves, and here it will. A cracked slab is a repair you live with or replace in sections. A settled paver gets lifted and reset.
Will my concrete crack?
Eventually, somewhere, yes. Concrete moves as it cures and again as the clay under it swells and shrinks. That is why proper work includes control joints, cut or tooled at planned spacing so the slab cracks where you decided instead of across the middle. Reinforcement and correct thickness control how wide those cracks get. Anyone who promises no cracks is selling you something.
How thick should a driveway be?
Four inches is standard for a patio or walkway. A driveway wants more, and anything that will carry a truck, an RV, or a dumpster wants six inches with proper reinforcement over a compacted base. The extra concrete is a small part of the total and it is the difference between a driveway that lasts and one that spiderwebs in five years.
How long before I can use it?
Walk on it after about 24 to 48 hours. Keep vehicles off for a week minimum, and closer to two weeks for a full driveway in cool weather. Concrete keeps gaining strength for a month. Rushing a car onto a fresh slab is one of the few ways a homeowner can damage good work.

Want a real number for your yard?

Ranges are a starting point. A free on site estimate gives you an exact price for your space, in English or Spanish, with no obligation.

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